2006.06.14 Skwentna River

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Introduction

Andy Embick's "Fast and Cold" is more than just a guidebook for Alaska wilderness whitewater. Inside are several accounts of high adventure to inspire your own rambles. One such trip I'd been looking at and dreaming of was the Skwentna. It seemed to have everything - length (113 miles by Embick's calculations) a good stretch of whitewater (up to class IV), classic Alaska wilderness setting, and complicated access logistics. I was sold.

The Skwentna starts high in a glacial valley separating the Tordrillo Mountains to the east and the Alaska Range to the west. It flows north for 50 miles, then heads under the Alaska Range, forming the northern boundary of the Tordrillos. It begins as a small, braided glacial outlet stream from the North and South Twin Glaciers, becoming a single channel river for 20 miles, then growing in size while alternating between low canyons and braided plains. By the end of the trip, the river has grown an order of magnitude in volume, and constantly changes character.



The usual suspects were rounded up to join Lauren and I: JT and Scott Coster. Tony Perelli also was willing to give it a shot, and we were happy to have him along. The best part of running these rivers is the cast that shows up at the put in.

Now for the complicated logistics. Last April, I started by calling all the Talkeetna, Anchorage, and Willow pilots I knew. That list quickly narrowed to Hudson Air out of Talkeetna. Finally, they admitted they had no desire dealing with us, but they suggested Barry Stanley with Denali Flying Service out of Willow. Barry turned out to be the perfect choice: he knew the area very well from leading hunting trips in the area, and was game to give the upper strip a try. We were on.

We decided to use small, lightly loaded rafts to make the upper braids a little less painful, and to try and keep our flight costs down. Though we planned a backpacker style trip, we ended up with a strange fusion of heavy meals alternating with backpacker style meals, with paco pads and a tiny Bibler tent. Basically, the "backpacker style" phrase became one of our favorite jokes on the trip, mainly as we swilled Tecate.

Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 1 - Willow to Upper Skwentna Airstrip

Lauren and I met the crew at the supermarket in Eagle River and picked up the last minute items. Realizing we were going to be very early to meet Barry, we decided to head his way anyway.

When we arrived, Barry was glad to see us early, as his morning group had cancelled. He had Lauren and I aboard his Maul within a half hour of arriving, as soon as the $488 per person round trip fee had been approved by our credit card companies.

Immediately after taking off, Barry began telling us stories of guiding hunting trips in the area and flying in kayakers for the Happy River. He was a great resource, and had all sorts of pointers about the river corridor.

Susitna River from the air


We flew out to Skwentna to check out the take out, then took a short cut up the Hayes River to Spring Creek, which looked like it held some beautiful class V whitewater - including at least a 30 footer. Soon we were high in the Tordrillos.

Tordrillo mountains


Spring Creek Pass


After dropping over Spring Creek Pass into the Black and Tan valley and up into the Skwentna valley, Barry pointed out a landslide that had dammed the Skwentna five years prior.

The landslide


Barry put us down gently 10 miles downriver from the source of the Skwentna. The strip was an unimproved gravel bar used by a hunting guide out of Anchorage. The hunting camp was littered with 55 gallon drums, spent propane and white fuel canisters, an open latrine, and the finest collection of plastic travel mugs this side of Wall Drug, conveniently hanging from nearly every willow in site.

The strip


After kicking some of the larger rocks off the strip, Barry decided to try and bring in a 206 with 1 person and the boats, and took off to get them. Lauren and I shuttled our gear over to the river, and sat down to wait. I got antsy, and walked up a drainage to the south, while Lauren took a nap, regardless of wandering bears. After 2.5 hours of waiting, we heard Barry approach in the 206. He used nearly all of the strip, and quickly unloaded Scott and the boats, and was gone.

Barry approaches


Scott, Lauren and I used our time shuttling the boats to the river, building frames, and inflating rafts. By the time JT and Tony showed up in the last Maul trip, we had everything in working order. But the time was after 6pm, and we decided to stay put where we were at, enjoying the view.

The view from the put-in


Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to unnamed glacier outlet creek

After a chilly night, we awoke to clear skies.

Morning, day 2


JT and Tony had obviously just finished a year of teaching, because they didn't roll out until relatively late. We messed around with the boats getting stuff ready, and by late morning, we were ready to start dragging boats.

Shallow braids


The first 5 miles of river took a few hours to get through, with a few spots where we had to jump out and walk the boat. But althogether, our progress was pretty good.

Scott in the upper braids


Soon we were starting into the single channel Skwentna, and our progress picked up considerably.

Upper Skwentna


After a few hours on the river, low canyon walls started appearing, and the gradient started increasing. While the river level was very low, side creeks were rapidly increasing the volume.

Skwentna canyon


The whitewater continued to pick up, gradually pushing from class II to class III.

Typical upper Skwentna stretch


Pretty soon, the class III began to be solid, and everyone was staying busy.

Working it


Tony was hitting his lines, but the river started getting a bit pushy for the buttboat. After an early swim and recovery, Tony paddled over a huge mid-river rock, dropped in the maelstrom behind it, and came out ass over tea kettle holding two ends of his paddle.

Tony and his paddle


Tony deflated his boat, jumped in with JT, and we were off again. Immediately after Tony pulled out, we hit three drops in a row stiff even at our low flows. Scott had pulled out below the third drop to ensure that we all made it through right side up. Everyone passed.

We pulled into Mile 24 where an unnamed glacier creek met the river from the east. The views were beautiful, and we set up camp in a slight drizzle.

View camp #1


Another view


Tony wasted no time preparing a splint for his broken paddle. After spending hours carving on one splint, he decided that it had too much angle, and started over. The result was a fully functional paddle the next day.

Tony labors


Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Morning day 3 we woke up to a cold drizzle. After a slow start, we headed up the creek for a short hike. I kept thinking how much fun it would be to run this trip in hardshell kayaks, mainly so you could bag side creeks.

The rain from the previous night had doubled the volume of the Skwentna, and the glacier creeks were running high and muddy. I thought back to the canyon section that we had run at such a low friendly level. It would have been a different setting with a bit more water in there.

Unnamed glacier creek


After our hike, we floated for an hour or so through wide braids, then scrambled up another side creek that offered some views of the Skwentna.

Skwentna views


Everyone seemed a little tired after our long previous day.

Lauren naps


We camped early at the confluence of Black and Tan and Emerald Creek in a yet another beautiful spot.

View camp #2


As we set up camp, the sky began to clear. For the first time, we brought out the bocci balls and everyone enjoyed a beer.

The group


Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

I rolled out of the tent to find Tony already busy with the kitchen. I was glad for some early morning company, and we enjoyed the spectacular views that the clearing had brought.

The view upriver


After breakfast, we headed up the Black and Tan Creek drainage. I turned back when river side travel was no longer possible; JT, Scott, and Tony all continued until they could see up the Black and Tan valley to the terminus of the glacier. Beautiful country.

Lauren and I hung out and read until they returned. The morning hike made it so we were on our usual 12 noon departure. The day was warm, and we had a bit of a breeze at times, but the views were incredible.

Upper Skwentna


Scott


JT


Random peak


Lauren and clouds


After a few hours of floating north, the river turned and headed east. This stretch is spectacular also. Canyon walls came right down to the river level, similar to the Nizina Canyon, alternating with stretches of broad braided river.

Middle Skwentna Canyon


Scott and the dike


In one spot, the river is pushing up against a fin of rock that juts 200' into the river course.

Tony and the fin


We camped across from the confluence of the Happy River, hoping to fish it in the morning. I was quite sure we were going to see a bear, and I started everyone on a strict training regime by yelling "bear!" every 30 seconds or so. Pretty soon, I was yelling "beer" as we played bocci. Retiring to the yellow tent, Tony and Lauren proceeded to whip JT and I in Euchre.

Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

An early start! For us anyway, meaning somewhere around 10am. So much for our "backpacker style hard-core adventure". This trip had turned into our typical float and bloat, complete with Tecate beer, pancake breakfasts, and paco pads for those who were smart enough to bring them.

The day brought alternating canyon and braided stretches. At mile 64, a mid-river pinnacle created some interest.

Mid-river pinnacle


Mid-river pinnacle


We hoped to camp at the upper mouth of the Hayes River which looked to offer a hike to the main stem of the Hayes. We had planned on carrying the Culebra and the butt boat to this point, then floating down the Hayes, just to break up the days a bit. However, the Hayes gravel bar was not readily apparent, at least to me, and we camped between the upper stem and the main stem, around mile 77. More bocci, more euchre, and once again, Tony and Lauren handed JT and myself our asses.

Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna

Waking up, the first thing I noticed was that the bugs had arrived. We had been pretty bug free up to this point, but this morning, they were waiting for us.

The bug shirts are out


Our weather was holding nicely, and once on the river, the bugs abated.

The crew


We stopped for a long lunch to purify some water on a mid river sandbar. The smoked salmon came out as did many jokes about backpacker style.

Mid-river lunch


Just as we were getting ready to leave, we noticed that Tony had laid himself out on the Puma and fallen asleep. The rest of us decided that the proper thing to do was play a game of bocci.

A fine after lunch activity


We floated another couple of hours until we reached the confluence of the Talachulitina. Two fishing boats were anchored up at the confluence. These were the first people we had seen since Barry had dropped us off, 6 days before. Tony and I casted around the Talachulitna a bit, but didn't try very hard.

Tony looking for a big king


We all paddled and rowed up stream to the first island gravel bar, where we made camp surrounded by the tea colored waters of the Talachu. Power boats zipped up and down the river until quite late.

The Talachulitna, river level


Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna

[tkelsey]

Skwentna, 2006

Day 7 - Talachulitna to Skwentna

The bugs were getting oppressive now. The tent was covered in them. I applied bug dope, put on my bug shirt, and crawled out of the tent very late, in time to drink part of the second pot of coffee. Power boat traffic had picked up early morning, and continued.

We set off toward Skwentna, and soon made a decision to take a right channel. After JT checked his GPS unit, we realized we were in a back slough of the now huge river. The slough continued to about a mile shy of Skwentna, where we finally reached the main channel again.

Main Skwentna


The landing strip was visible from the 4 boats tied just below it. We pulled up amongst the swarming bugs, and quickly unloaded the rafts to the apron of the strip. A few fisherman came down and talked to us. They confirmed that the king run was late this year, and then went off to fish a back slough.

After getting the boats ready to fly out, we walked toward town, where the fisherman had told us we could crash in their cabin while we waited for Barry. We took a wrong turn, then realized it was almost time for Barry to arrive anyway, and so headed back, sans Tony who took off at a jog with the rest of the beer, which we hoped to leave with the fisherman.

Skwentna!


Barry arrived right on time, and we quickly loaded the boats and sent Scott and JT out on the first flight. The flight was pretty loaded, but Barry had plenty of runway, and wasn't worried.

Sagging tires


Lauren, Tony and I settled in to wait for the second flight. Tony pulled out his kite, and we played with that until Barry came back to get us.

Skwentna from the air


After loading our boats, we pulled out of Willow heading for the Cadillac Cafe in Wasilla for some eats. The first news I heard was that the Palestinians and the Isrealis were fighting. Ah, it's good to know that nothing ever really changes.

Day 1 - Willow to the Upper Skwentna strip

Day 2 - Upper Skwentna Strip to Mile 24, unnamed glacier outlet creek

Day 3 - Unnamed glacier outlet creek to Black and Tan Creek

Day 4 - Black and Tan Creek to the Happy River

Day 5 - Happy River to Mile 77

Day 6 - Mile 77 to the Talachulitna River

Day 7 - Talachulitna River to Skwentna